Hello Gang,
If you have questions like: "How do you know if a wave is a right or a left?", "How do you know when a wave is going to break?", or "What is a close-out?", the Gang is here to answer them!
To become a good surfer, you need technical knowledge and an understanding of your environment. There's a specific vocabulary you need to know to understand, read, and anticipate wave movement. This will make entering the water easier, optimize your trajectory once you're on the wave, and ensure your safety at the surf spots of Biscarrosse.
In this article, we will learn how to recognize the different types of waves in surfing.
The beach break
It is a beach where waves break on a sandy bottom, often close to the shore.
The main advantage is that it offers reassuring conditions for beginners, as falling on the sand is less dangerous than falling on rocks or coral. The disadvantage is that this sand shifts with the wind, swell, and tides. Conditions are therefore highly unpredictable, and beach break spots are constantly changing.
Surfing on a beach break is therefore more unpredictable than on other types of spots. It is often faster and more instinctive.
The break point
These are spots where waves can break on sand and rock.
The wave always starts from the same point, which can be marked by a rocky point, a sandbar, a jetty, or even the hull of a beached ship. These waves break to the right or left, sometimes both, and have good shoulders that allow surfers to ride them for long distances. These waves are highly sought after because they are so enjoyable to surf.
You can go around them to head back out to sea, although sometimes the rowing can be long. It's better to get out of the water and walk back to the peak.
The reef break
The waves break on a seabed made up exclusively of rocks or coral. It's therefore not a place to start surfing.
Because the seabed is stable, the main characteristic is the formation of regular waves that break predictably in a precise location. This allows, at certain sites, surfing in waves much larger than those found on sandbars.
The most well-known reef breaks often form hollow waves. They come in all shapes and sizes, ranging from very short, extremely powerful waves to long, gently sloping waves.
Left or right
A "left" is a wave that, when you are on the beach, breaks to the right.
Similarly, a "right" is a wave which, when you are on the beach, breaks to the left.
A frame
A wave in the shape of an "A" is called an "A frame". It breaks both to the right and to the left, creating an "A" shape.
This configuration is interesting because two surfers can catch the wave at the same time, each surfing in a different direction.
A close-up
Finally, a "close-out" is a wave that breaks along its entire length almost simultaneously, making surfing difficult or even impossible.
In conclusion, there are different types of waves that can be surfed around the world. Keeping this information in mind will help you better prepare to choose your next surfing destination and maximize your time in the water. Gang surf instructors are ready to teach you how to read the waves, so don't wait any longer and book your course !
